Some of you might recall seeing the first doll chair stand project. With that one, the chair is sufficient for 50cm-class dolls manufactured by Obitsu (and then rebranded by Azone) but it's not big enough for 60cm-class Dollfies. I wanted a display chair for a 60cm-class doll so I bought a few items.
Clock surface purchased from Michaels.
Chair stand purchased from Volks USA.
The clock surface was given a coat of white primer and coat of clear gloss.
Plastic washers, plastic pipe, and brass pipe.
Where the washers came from requires some explanation. I used to play fighting games quite a bit and wasn't happy with most commercially available joysticks. I custom built my own and this meant buying joystick parts. If I bought a joystick mechanism, it always came with 2 washers. Because of the way my sticks were customized, I didn't always need to install both washers. I kept the washers thinking I might need to use them someday. I didn't imagine at the time I might need them for a doll chair stand. XD
The plastic pipe is a Tamiya brand 8mm (diameter) plastic pipe. The brass pipe is a K&S brand 3/8-inch brass pipe. I cut both pipes to what I thought would be the appropriate lengths.
Electrical tape on the plastic pipe.
This was needed because the hole in the clock surface is too large for the plastic pipe but too small for the brass pipe.
Electrical tape at the bottom of the clock surface.
This was necessary because the plastic pipe will hit whatever surface the stand is on due to the weight of the chair + doll which will sit on it. Even wit the electrical tape on the pipe, the friction isn't strong enough for the pipe not to press directly on whatever surface is below. In future, I might seal off the bottom side of the clock surface with epoxy putty. For now, it's just electrical tape.
Additional considerations for the near future:
- Seal off the bottom hole with epoxy putty
- Paint the glossy white clock surface with more colors
- Modify Clock surface hole size or use different pipes
UPDATE 2017-03-29: I made the hole in the clock surface slightly larger and inserted the brass pipe directly into the hole. The hole diameter wasn't made larger all the way down so the brass pipe won't dig into whatever surface the stand is on. This also made the bottom washer unnecessary. In order to not make the brass pipe hollow at the bottom, the plastic pipe is still inside it. The stand is much more stable now.
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